How to catch a
wave and go surfing USA..
As a wave approaches and is about to reach you,
turn or push the nose of your surfboard toward
the beach, and if you aren't already on the
board, pull yourself on it so you are lying flat
on it not too close to the nose. Begin paddling.
As you feel the wave lift you and your board,
paddle as hard as you can and lean your weight
forward. The natural tendency is to lean back to
keep the nose from going under water, but that
will only slow your momentum which in not
conducive to wave-catching. surfer-catches-wave.html
Lean forward but raise your chest so that your
weight is just above the center of the board.
You should now be sliding down into the the
trough of the wave. Wait until you are in the
flat water in front of the wave before you stand
up or stand just as you feel the pull of the
wave. Now ride!