How to catch a wave and go surfing USA.

As a wave approaches and is about to reach you, turn or push the nose of your surfboard toward the beach, and if you aren't already on the board, pull yourself on it so you are lying flat on it not too close to the nose. Begin paddling. As you feel the wave lift you and your board, paddle as hard as you can and lean your weight forward. The natural tendency is to lean back to keep the nose from going under water, but that will only slow your momentum which in not conducive to wave-catching. surfer-catches-wave.html

Lean forward but raise your chest so that your weight is just above the center of the board. You should now be sliding down into the the trough of the wave. Wait until you are in the flat water in front of the wave before you stand up or stand just as you feel the pull of the wave. Now ride!