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PERSIMMONS
Diospyros kaki Linn
Ebenaceae
Common Names: Persimmon, Oriental Persimmon, Japanese Persimmon, Kaki.
Related species: Black Sapote (Diospyros digyna), Mabolo, Velvet Apple (D.
discolor), Date Plum (D. lotus), Texas Persimmon (D. texana), American Persimmon
(D. virginiana).
Origin: The oriental persimmon is native to China, where it has been cultivated
for centuries and more than two thousand different cultivars exist. It spread to
Korea and Japan many years ago where additional cultivars were developed. The
plant was introduced to California in the mid 1800's.
General Production Information
The total value of California’s persimmon crop in 1998 was $12,614,300. In 1998,
11,439 tons were produced on 2,165 acres (1).
Tulare County leads California persimmon production with 4,830 tons harvested
from 715 acres in 1998. The average yield per acre was 6.76 tons priced at
$1,150 per ton (1).
China leads in the worldwide production of persimmons, producing around 57% of
the crop. Japan is second, producing 27% of the crop (6).
California makes up 99% of national market (6).
Production Regions
The central San Joaquin Valley of California is the major production area with
Tulare and Fresno Counties producing 53% of the state’s total production. Other
production areas are located in southern California around San Diego, Riverside,
and Orange counties. A small percentage of the total acreage is grown in the
northern counties of Sutter and Placer counties.
Persimmons grow best in regions with moderate winters and relatively mild
summers. When fully dormant the persimmon tree can tolerate temperatures of 0ºF.
However, since the tree has a low chilling requirement, it may break dormancy
early and be damaged by spring frosts. Persimmons do not produce well in the
high summer heat of desert regions (2). In California the leading production
counties are Tulare, San Diego and Fresno (1).
Production Practices
The persimmon is also known as the Oriental persimmon, Japanese persimmon, or
kaki. It is native to China and was introduced to California in the mid-1800’s.
The persimmon tree is either male or female, but some trees have both male and
female flowers. Many cultivars set seedless fruit without pollination, but some
climates require pollination for adequate production (2). Cross-pollination can
be a problem when ‘Hachiya’ and ‘Fuyu’ persimmon are planted within one-half
mile of each other. Hard black seeds will develop in the ‘Fuyu’ fruit making it
non-marketable.
Adaptation: Persimmons do best in areas that have moderate winters and
relatively mild summers--suitable for growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 10.
It can tolerate temperatures of 0° F when fully dormant. However, because of its
low chilling requirement (less than 100 hours), it may break dormancy during
early warm spells only to be damaged by spring frosts later. The leaves are
killed by 26° F when growing. Trees do not produce well in the high summer heat
of desert regions, which may also sunburn the bark.
PERSIMMON , common name for trees
of a genus of the ebony family. The common persimmon is native to the eastern
United States, growing wild from Connecticut and Iowa south to Florida and
Texas; it grows up to 15 m (up to 50 ft) and has oblong leaves and unisexual
flowers. The edible fruit is a large berry about the size of an apricot, with a
tomatolike skin.
The persimmon tree yields a heavy, hard, close-grained wood that is used for
shuttles and bobbins in the textile industry and for golf-club heads and other
sports equipment. The Japanese persimmon is cultivated in the warm sections of
the United States, particularly in California, for its fruit.
Persimmons can be classified into two general categories: those that bear
astringent fruit until they are soft ripe and those that bear nonastringent
fruits. Within each of these categories, there are cultivars whose fruits are
influenced by pollination (pollination variant) and cultivars whose fruits are
unaffected by pollination (pollination constant). Actually, it is the seeds, not
pollination per se, that influences the fruit. An astringent cultivar must be
jelly soft before it is fit to eat, and such cultivars are best adapted to
cooler regions where persimmons can be grown. The flesh color of
pollination-constant astringent cultivars is not influenced by pollination.
Pollination-variant astringent cultivars have dark flesh around the seeds when
pollinated.
A nonastringent persimmon can be eaten when it is crisp as an apple. These
cultivars need hot summers, and the fruit might retain some astringency when
grown in cooler regions. Pollination-constant nonastringent (PCNA) persimmons
are always edible when still firm; pollination-variant nonastringent (PVNA)
fruit are edible when firm only if they have been pollinated.
The shape of the fruit varies by cultivar from spherical to acorn to flattened
or squarish. The color of the fruit varies from light yellow-orange to dark
orange-red. The size can be as little as a few ounces to more than a pound. The
entire fruit is edible except for the seed and calyx. Alternate bearing is
common. This can be partially overcome by thinning the fruit or moderately
pruning after a light-crop year. Astringency can also be removed by treating
with carbon dioxide or alcohol. Freezing the fruit overnight and then thawing
softens the fruit and also removes the astringency. Unharvested fruit remaining
on the tree after leaf fall creates a very decorative effect. It is common for
many immature fruit to drop from May to September
DESCRIPTION
Growth Habit: The persimmon is a multitrunked or single-stemmed deciduous tree
to 25 ft. high and at least as wide. It is a handsome ornamental with drooping
leaves and branches that give it a languid, rather tropical appearance. The
branches are somewhat brittle and can be damaged in high winds.
Foliage: Persimmon leaves are alternate, simple, ovate and up to 7 inches long
and 4 inches wide. They are often pale, slightly yellowish green in youth,
turning a dark, glossy green as they age. Under mild autumn conditions the
leaves often turn dramatic shades of yellow, orange and red. Tea can also be
made from fresh or dried leaves.
Flowers: The inconspicuous flowers surrounded by a green calyx tube are borne in
the leaf axils of new growth from one-year old wood. Female flowers are single
and cream-colored while the pink-tinged male flowers are typically borne in
threes. Commonly, 1 to 5 flowers per twig emerge as the new growth extends
(typically March). Persimmon trees are usually either male or female, but some
trees have both male and female flowers. On male plants, especially, occasional
perfect (bisexual) flowers occur, producing an atypical fruit. A tree's sexual
expression can vary from one year to the other. Many cultivars are
parthenocarpic (setting seedless fruit without pollination), although some
climates require pollination for adequate production. When plants not needing
pollination are pollinated, they will produce fruits with seeds and may be
larger and have a different flavor and texture than do their seedless
counterparts.
Fruit: Persimmons can be classified into two general categories: those that bear
astringent fruit until they are soft ripe and those that bear nonastringent
fruits. Within each of these categories, there are cultivars whose fruits are
influenced by pollination (pollination variant) and cultivars whose fruits are
unaffected by pollination (pollination constant). Actually, it is the seeds, not
pollination per se, that influences the fruit. An astringent cultivar must be
jelly soft before it is fit to eat, and such cultivars are best adapted to
cooler regions where persimmons can be grown. The flesh color of
pollination-constant astringent cultivars is not influenced by pollination.
Pollination-variant astringent cultivars have dark flesh around the seeds when
pollinated. A nonastringent persimmon can be eaten when it is crisp as an apple.
These cultivars need hot summers, and the fruit might retain some astringency
when grown in cooler regions. Pollination-constant nonastringent (PCNA)
persimmons are always edible when still firm; pollination-variant nonastringent
(PVNA) fruit are edible when firm only if they have been pollinated.
The shape of the fruit varies by cultivar from spherical to acorn to flattened
or squarish. The color of the fruit varies from light yellow-orange to dark
orange-red. The size can be as little as a few ounces to more than a pound. The
entire fruit is edible except for the seed and calyx. Alternate bearing is
common. This can be partially overcome by thinning the fruit or moderately
pruning after a light-crop year. Astringency can also be removed by treating
with carbon dioxide or alcohol. Freezing the fruit overnight and then thawing
softens the fruit and also removes the astringency. Unharvested fruit remaining
on the tree after leaf fall creates a very decorative effect. It is common for
many immature fruit to drop from May to September
CULTURE
Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in
inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown
in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an
attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete
well with eucalyptus.
Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is
not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to
7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper
hole than usual when planting (when on D. kaki stock).
Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the
fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme
drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on
the tree will probably sunburn. Some 36 to 48 inches of water are needed
annually, applied gradually in spring and tapering off in the fall. Hot inland
areas may require 2 or 3 applications weekly, while coastal areas may need
watering only once every 6 weeks, depending on the soil. If a drip system is is
used, the emitters should be moved away from the trunk as the tree matures.
Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen
can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is
less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a
rate of l pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the
fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.
Pruning: Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches
while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the
branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of
some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce
alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees
grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a
screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back
to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.
Propagation: Stratification is recommended for all persimmon seeds. The common
rootstock in California is D. lotus, although it is not compatible with some
cultivars, including fuyu. Other rootstock such as D. kaki seedlings are
temperamental and have long tap roots. D. virginiana is inconsistent and suckers
badly. Whip and cleft grafts are the ones commonly used. The trunks of young
trees should be protected from sunburn and rodent damage.
Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug
and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control
will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white
flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the
"brown lace collar" near the calyx. Waterlogging can also cause root rot.
Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are
fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include
blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually
a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try
girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be
responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be
remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.
Harvest: Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They
will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many
fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at
room temperature. Nonastringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are
fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest.
Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning
shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying
whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though
the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle
with care.
Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at
least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Nonastringent
persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will
soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an
excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into
slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons
are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet,
datelike consistency.
Commercial Potential: Persimmons are found in most supermarkets during the
season, but there is not a large demand outside ethnic markets. It would appear
that there is a potential as a major crop if and when the market is developed.
CULTIVARS
There has been a great deal of confusion and misidentification among persimmon
cultivars. The following list is subject to revision as better analysis
techniques become available.
Astringent Varieties
Eureka
Medium to large oblate fruit, puckered at the calyx. Skin bright orange-red.
Good quality. Ripens late. Tree small, vigorous,drought and frost resistant,
precocious and heavy-bearing. One of the most satisfactory cultivars for Florida
and Texas
Hachiya
Large, oblong-conical fruit Skin glossy, deep orange. Flesh dark yellow. Sweet
and rich. Good for drying. Ripens midseason to late. Tree vigorous,
upright-spreading. Prolific in California.
Honan Red
Small, roundish oblate fruit with thin skin. Skin and flesh ripen to a distinct
orange-red. Very sweet and rich. Excellent for fresh eating and drying. Ripens
midseason to late. Tall, upright, moderately vigorous tree. Bears good crop.
Saijo
Small, elongated fruit. Skin dull-yellow when mature. Flavor sweet, excellent,
ranked among the best by gourmets. Mature fruits are attractive when dried. Tree
medium in height, bears consistently. Cold hardy to -10° F.
Tamopan
Large, somewhat four-sided fruit, broad-oblate and indented around the middle.
Skin thick, orange-red. Flesh light orange, sweet and rich when fully ripe.
Ripens midseason in California
Tanenashi
Medium-sized round-conical fruits. Skin light yellow or orange, turning
orange-red, thick. Flesh yellow, sweet. Ripens early. Tree vigorous, rounded,
prolific. In California tends to bear in alternate years.
Triumph
Sold as Sharon Fruit after astringency has been chemically removed.
Medium-sized, oblate fruits. Ripens in October.
Nonastringent Varieties
Fuyu (Fuyugaki)
Medium-large oblate fruit, faintly four-sided. Skin deep orange. Flesh light
orange, sweet and mild. Ripens late. Keeps well and is an excellent packer and
shipper. Tree vigorous, spreading, productive. Most popular nonastringent
cultivar in Japan.
Gosho/Giant Fuyu/O'Gosho
Large, roundish-oblate fruit. Skin reddish orange, attractive. When fully ripe
has one of the deepest red colors of any persimmon. Flesh quality good, sweeter
than Fuyu. Ripens in late October. Tree somewhat dwarf. Bears regularly but sets
a light crop in some seasons and is prone to premature shedding of fruit.
Imoto
Similar to Jiro. Reddish brown skin. Occasional male flowers and seeds. Probably
a bud mutation of Jiro. Ripens late October and early November
Izu
Medium-sized fruit. Skin burnt orange. Flesh soft, with a good amount of syrup,
of fine texture. Flavor very good. Not reliably nonastringent. Ripens early,
from the end of September to mid-October. Tree somewhat dwarf. Bears only female
flowers. Sets good crop.
Jiro
Fruit large. Resembles Fuyu, but more truncated and squarish in cross-section.
Skin orange-red. Flavor and quality excellent. Ripens late October and early
November, ships well. Often sold as Fuyu. Tree slightly upright. Most popular
nonastringent variety in California.
Maekawajiro
Medium-sized, rounded fruit, smoother and less indented than Jiro. Rich orange
in color. Sweet and of good quality. Ripens in mid-season. Tree slightly
upright. Must be planted with a suitable pollinator to ensure good fruit yield.
Bud mutation of Jiro.
Okugosho
Medium-sized, round fruit. Skin orange to deep red. Flesh sweet, of good
texture, flavor good. Not reliably nonastringent. Ripens in early November. Tree
medium-sized, vigorous, spreading. Differentiates male flowers, making it a
suitable pollinator.
Suruga
Large fruit. Skin orange-red. Flesh dense, very sweet, excellent quality.
Difficult to soften on tree (fruit becomes spongy rather than soft). Ripens in
November, keeps well Tree almost free from alternate bearing. Recommended for
warmer climates.
Pollination Variant Varieties (astringent when seedless)
Chocolate
Small to medium-sized, oblong-conical fruit. Skin reddish orange. Flesh
brown-streaked when pollinated, must be soft-ripe before eating. Ripens late
October to early November. Tree large, vigorous, producing many male blossoms.
Recommended as a pollinator for pollination variant cultivars such as Hyakuma
and Zenji Maru.
Gailey
Fruit small, roundish to conical with a rounded apex. Skin dull red, pebbled.
Flesh dark, firm, juicy, of fair flavor. Tree small to medium. Bears many male
flowers regularly and is an excellent cultivar to plant for cross-pollination.
Has attractive autumn foliage and ornamental value.
Hyakume
Fruit large, roundish oblong to roundish oblate. Skin buff-yellow to light
orange, marked with rings and veins near the apex. Flesh dark cinnamon when
seeded, juicy, of firm texture, nonmelting. Flavor spicy, very good.
Nonastringent even while the fruit is still hard. Ripens in midseason, stores
and ships well.
Maru
Small to medium-sized fruit, rounded at the apex. Skin brilliant orange-red,
attractive. Flesh dark cinnamon, juicy, sweet and rich, quality excellent.
Stores and ships especially well. Tree vigorous and productive. Generally
considered a group name.
Nishimura Wase
Fruit medium, round conical to oblate. Orange color. Mediocre flavor. Ripens in
September. Bears male flowers.
Rieger acquired the property as an investment with a former girlfriend. Having
never farmed a day in his life, he had no intention of tilling the earth. All
that changed as the orchard worked its magic on him.
"It was like a perfect Japanese garden," he recalled several weeks ago from his
stall at the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers' Market. "When I first walked out
into the orchard, I literally needed a map to tell which tree was which. The
first year I didn't take a single day off. Then Joanne called us into this
meeting and tried to get us interested in hoshigaki. All I'd heard was how
time-consuming it was. I thought to myself, 'There's no way I'm going to do
this.' "
Several months later, Rieger stopped by Otow Orchard to see his friend Kuratomi,
who was peeling some persimmons for hoshigaki. Rieger asked how to do it. One
thing led to another, and Rieger now is one of the art's tireless champions.
Last year he dried 300 persimmons; this year Rieger hopes to turn a ton and a
half of the fruit into hoshigaki. Kuratomi, the elder statesman, hopes to have
about 1,500 pounds of hoshigaki ready to ship by late November to mid-December
and retail the dried fruit for up to $15 per pound. Although Rieger's product
can be bought at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market, the three major growers in
Placer County—Rieger's Penryn Orchard Specialties, Otow Orchard and Brenner
Ranch—can be contacted directly and will ship nationwide.
Earlier this month, Rieger and Kuratomi were picking, peeling and hanging
persimmons as fast as they could. They and their helpers planned to spend nearly
every waking minute carefully massaging the fruit to perfection while it dried.
"It's incredibly labor-intensive," says Rieger. He then stops himself and
laughs. "I take that back. It's outrageously labor-intensive."
*
Hoshigaki Cannoli
Serves 6
The article "Massaging the
Persimmon" (Style, Oct. 30) misspelled the surname of Jeff Rieger, of Rieger's
Penryn Orchard Specialties, as Reiger. In addition, the recipe for hoshigaki
cannoli should have noted that it was adapted from Laurence Hauben.
How do I eat this thing? Captivating Consumers with Effective Sampling, Storage
Information and Recipes
Jefrey H. Rieger, Penryn Orchard Specialties
Laurence Hauben, Santa Barbara Slow Food Convivium
Frieda Caplan, Frieda’s Inc
Massaging the Persimmon
You needn't be insane to practice the ancient Japanese art of hoshigaki--just
reasonably obsessive
Kent Black
Two years ago, Joanne Neft, director of Placer County's Agriculture Marketing
Program, was admiring groves of persimmon trees flanking a road in Newcastle
when she was struck by the extraordinary amount of fruit being eaten by birds or
rotting on the ground.
She knew immediately why so much food was going to waste. "We have the
fastest-growing county in California," she says, citing the steady march of
development north from Sacramento and Roseville. "Many of the farmers here are
retiring or dying . . . so a lot of the orchards are left untended."
Neft knew that the county's agricultural decline meant that someday she might
not be able to get one of her favorite delicacies: hoshigaki, or dried
persimmons. "I have a friend, Martha Miyamura, who once owned a farm with her
late husband, Kay. Every December they would make me a gift of hoshigaki, which
they usually gave away as gifts or sold to the Asian markets. It's pure ambrosia
. . . a sweet, concentrated taste of persimmon."
She decided that she would revive the art of hoshigaki in Placer County. Though
it seems odd to apply "art" to a process of drying fruit, the technique is
reported to be hundreds of years old. "Red Persimmons," a 2001 film by the late
Shinsuke Ogawa and Peng Xiaolian, documented the process practiced by farmers in
the tiny Japanese village of Kaminoyama. Carefully peeling the Hachiya variety
of persimmon before they ripened, the hoshigaki artisans would leave the stems
on and tie them with a string so they could be hung up for drying. After the
exposed skin dried a few days later, the villagers would then gently massage the
fruit to break down the pulp and membranes inside.
Every few days for about a month, the process would be repeated with thousands
of persimmons until they dried and a fine coating of fructose came to the
surface, as if the fruit had been dipped in powdered sugar. In a 2004 report, UC
Davis graduate students wrote that hoshigaki is different from other dried fruit
"because the drying process is deeply influenced by Japanese values of hard
work, perfection and dedication."
Hoshigaki arrived in Placer County with Japanese immigrants at the turn of the
last century. Tosh Kuratomi and his wife, Chris, run Otow Orchard, a diverse 39
1/2 -acre farm in Granite Bay that was started by her grandparents in about
1909. He believes that the county's claim as the "Fruit Shipping Capital of the
World" during the first two decades of the 20th century was partly due to the
dedication of the Japanese immigrants. According to Neft, Placer County shipped
152 million pounds of fruit in 1923.
And then came World War II and internment. Although some Japanese American
farmers returned to their land after the war, production levels were eclipsed by
other counties in the Central Valley. And many of the children and grandchildren
of these farmers chose other professions. Only a few families, such as
Kuratomi's, carried on the hoshigaki tradition commercially.
In spring 2004, Neft called a lunch meeting of persimmon growers. She wanted to
convince them that not only could they preserve a dying art, but an additional
market could be created for their fruit. Jeff Rieger was one of those present.
Only a year and a half earlier, the 48-year-old builder from North Lake Tahoe
had acquired a 4 1/2 -acre orchard from an 82-year-old Japanese American farmer.
Saving Cherished Slow Foods, One Product at a Time
Japanese Massaged Dried Persimmon
HOSHI GAKI
Hoshi gaki are persimmons that are peeled and dried whole over a period of
several weeks through a combination of hanging and delicate hand-massaging,
until the sugars contained in the fruit form a delicate "bloom," a surface
dusting that looks like frost. Unlike sliced dried fruit, which tend to be
brittle and leathery, hoshi gaki are succulently tender and moist, with
concentrated persimmon flavor. The hoshi gaki method is traditional to Japan,
and came to America with Japanese American farmers. Because they are so
labor-intensive, hoshi gaki all but disappeared from commercial production.
Thanks in great part to the efforts of Joanne Neft, Placer County Agricultural
Marketing Director, there is now an interest in reviving the hoshi gaki process.
We know of a few producers in Placer County, California where hoshi gaki can be
found at farmers markets from November through the Holiday season. The product
remains scarce and hard to find beyond the area of immediate production, but one
Placer County farmer, Jeff Rieger, is scheduled to begin selling hoshi gaki at
the Santa Monica Farmers Market this fall. Hoshi gaki can also be ordered from
the producers listed below.
Former producer:
Martha Miyamura
PO Box 346
Penryn, CA 95663
Current Producers:
Tosh Kuratomi
Otow Orchard
Granite Bay, CA
916/791-1656
(Will ship long distance)
Jeffrey Rieger
Penryn Orchard Specialties
Penryn, CA
916-769-5462
jhrieger@sbcglobal.net
(Will ship long distance)
Jim and Karen Brenner
Brenner Ranch
Newcastle, CA
916-663-4578
(Will ship long distance)
HOSHI GAKI DIRECTIONS
Contributed by Jeffrey H. Rieger, Placer County farmer who grows hachiyas and
rare persimmons on his 4 acre farm near Auburn, in the Sierra foothill.
To be eaten fresh, the Hachiya persimmon must be completely soft, otherwise it
is unbearably astringent. For drying, however, the fruits are perfect when the
shoulders just lose their green, but are still firm like apples, generally from
the end of September to the middle of October. The riper they are, the more
delicately they must be handled. Making hoshi gaki requires patience, careful
monitoring, and a fair amount of dexterity. However, if you follow the method
closely, you will achieve a rewarding product that is succulent, very handsome,
and makes wonderful Holiday gifts.
Start with a 20 lbs box of medium sized hachiyas with the stems intact, and
store them calyx down. (If you pick your own fruit, pull upward against the
branch to retain the stem.) Handle the fruit very gently, as any bruise will
create a soft spot that will make peeling difficult and may create a leak during
the drying process. Larger persimmons can be dried too and yields a superior
product, but require more massaging, so medium fruit is best for beginners.
1. Peeling: Sitting in a comfortable chair with a bucket or newspaper between
your legs, prop your arms on your knees, and with a sharp paring knife, cut the
shoulders off the fruit so they are even with the flat disk of the calyx, with
one circular motion. Remove the loose part of the calyx, leaving the stem and a
ring of calyx the size of a quarter. Next, ease the angle between the flattened
calyx end and the sides of the fruit by rotating the knife around the fruit at a
45 degree angle. If you leave the shoulders on, the fruit will dry as if it were
shrugging. Be careful not to remove the shoulder too deeply, as the fruit will
tear at this point later on if you do. The rest of the peeling is best done with
a peeler whose blade is set perpendicular to the handle. Holding the fruit calyx
up in one hand, draw the blade down the side to the point. Only go over the
point once, as the membrane under the skin is thinnest here, and the fruit will
leak out later if you take off too much. Rotate the fruit so you are holding the
skin side, not the newly peeled side, and take another peel. Continue until all
the peel is gone and place in the "pana pack," calyx up. The most important step
is even peeling, with the minimum of smooth consistent strokes. Ridges are
inevitable, but the more pronounced they are, the more work lays ahead as the
persimmons dry. Persimmons are very slippery and will turn your skin brown from
the tannic acid. If you bruise the fruit or accidentally peel too deeply, small
areas can be patched with a peeling of membrane lain over the spot like a band
aid.
2. Hanging: The traditional method of hanging the fruit places several on a
string. It is easier to hang two fruit of about the same weight on one string
over a pole. If you vary the lengths of the string, you can fit more pairs per
length of pole by offsetting the heights. Closet pole works well. If the fruit
touches its neighbor or the string while drying, it will stick, create a weak
point and break open in the next step. A hot, dry environment is best. Try not
to let the temperature drop below 55F. Placing the fruit in direct sun may speed
the process, but you will have to "massage" it more often. The fruit must be
protected from the dew, or it will get moldy.
3. Massaging: After hanging for 3 to 7 days the persimmon will form a "skin,"
and you will be able to begin massaging them to break up the hard inner pulp.
Give one persimmon a squeeze just below the shoulder. If there is a little give,
gently continue massaging with the tips of your fingers until the inside is
consistently squishy, being careful not to tear the "skin." Leave the fruit as
flat as possible so it will dry evenly. Repeat the process with each fruit.
After a few more days, check to make sure they are drying uniformly without hard
edges. Those tend to happen along the peeling ridges. If the edges are getting
hard, hold the fruit longitudinally in your hands, and gently roll the outer
skin, leaving the flat edges in a different spot after going over the entire
fruit. Take care to avoid creases in the skin, as they will create weak points
that are susceptible to mold. If you encounter mold, brush it off with a
moistened tooth brush, dry, reposition flattened and re-hang. Remember to try to
leave each fruit evenly thick all over after each handling. Larger fruit may
need to be left in a triangle like a three cornered hat until it dries a bit.
Keep massaging the fruit gently every 3 to 5 days.
As your fruit nears the end of the process, three to five weeks, sugar will come
to the surface as you massage them, leaving a white bloom. The hoshi gaki are
fully done when the pulp sets and you can no longer roll it.
4. Storing: When finished, break off the stems to disconnect the strings. Store
the fruit in ziplock bags. You can store the finished product long term in the
freezer. For the short term, refrigerate. Protect from external moisture.
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