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There's that magical look when a surfer ends his set. It's especially dynamic in California where the weather's so great and, at the end of a sun-filled day, the water shimmers gold. Being in the ocean fulfills a portion of the daily need and addiction, but the surfing completes the deal. When you're out of the water and on the road traveling, or too busy to get back, something aches inside you to surf. There's nothing like it. If you stay away too long, you start having dreams and they can tear you apart.

I'm going home to California where I belong.

Photo tip: this picture worked because the sun was high enough in the sky to not impede with footsteps and motion of the person looking down with his board. If I had not used manual settings and my own light meter options, the photos would have turned out much flatter. I had to open up the aperture slightly to get a boost of light behind the surfer.